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Ward, Fanny : Journal of Fanny Ward. Egypt. Nubia. 1841-2

(Various places, August 1841 - January 1842)

Small 4to (210 x 166 mm); original burgundy morocco over limp boards, lettered in gilt on upper cover; gilt and blind rules to covers, and gilt-ruled compartment effect to spine; yellow endpapers; pp. (iv) + 113 manuscript pages; mounted monochrome ink and wash original Philae scene verso of final text leaf; front free endpaper pocket housing three items: 1. A folding 'Map to accompany Egyptian & Nubian Journals' (this a steel engraving 'Egypt' by S. Hall, Bury, and likely from the contemporary edition of the Encyclopaedia Britannica), with an itinerary penned in black showing part of the family's voyages to and from Bombay via the Red Sea, in the Mediterranean, their trips in the Nile delta and down the river as far as Wadi Halfa and the Second Cataract, plus a later journey, in blue ink, via Suez, to the Sinai peninsula and on to Jerusalem. 2. Another folding map, of 'Syria and Palestine', continuing in black ink the second route of the earlier map, with the inscription 'Dark line indicates the Route of Revd Randall Ward detailed in Journal 1842.' 3. A tiny ink sketch on card (38 x 74 mm) of a mountain scene, showing one of Randall Ward's camps, with 'Captain Morton 55 Regt' (?) penned on the reverse. Covers somewhat rubbed with a little wear to extremities; trace of damp ingress to lower board with consequent stain to fore-edge of endpaper and final two leaves, not affecting text; upper hinge fragile, with archival tape reinforcing; some leaves working loose, but all present; moderate foxing. The loose Egypt map has some tears to the folds, with discreet repairs to the reverse, some foxing, and a trace of surface dirt; the other map is a little spotted, with some marginal repairs to the reverse. Author's name signed on fly-leaf, in the same hand as the main text. On the verso facing the first diary page is the following message, conceivably in the same hand, though the script is larger: "The following interesting journal of a tour in Egypt + Nubia in 1841-2 was written without any assistance in its composition by Fanny Ward at the age of 13 years." The handwriting of the running heads is somewhat different, though perhaps just an attempt at a more calligraphic style. We have no knowledge of the diary of the Sinai and Palestine trip, indicated in the writing on the second map. The Reverend Randall Ward, whom The Gentleman's Magazine of 1839 notes in its 'Ecclesiastical Preferments' (p. 642) as having been appointed 'senior chaplain and acting archdeacon at Bombay', arrived in Egypt from the Indian sub-continent in early 1841. He would spend over a year touring Egypt, Nubia, Sinai and Palestine, before returning to Bombay. For much, if not all of this time, he was accompanied by his wife Frances, and daughters Fanny, Maria and Gertrude. The subject of the diary written by his eldest daughter Fanny is the family's travels in Egypt and Nubia, commencing 24 August 1841 on the Mahmoudia Canal, and concluding on 29 January 1842 in Cairo, after months of journeying. Egypt at this time was governed by Mehmet Ali Pasha, whose dynasty held power over the country until the early 1950s. Fanny remarks that "Mohamed Ali though he detests us, is obliged to conciliate our nation, for he dreads our power, and whilst his own unfortunate subjects are ill treated and oppressed, and are slaves, to him and the people he employs in his service, the least slight or annoyance occasioned to us would be severely punished." The Wards appear to have been of some means, having the leisure and funds to spend many months sailing a large boat in the Delta and all the way down to the second cataract and Wadi Halfa, with the assistance of crew or servants throughout. During this time, the girls' schooling continued, but there was ample opportunity for meeting local people and exploring the landmarks of Egyptian civilization. Fanny had the benefit of prior knowledge of many of the sites visited, comparing her own impressions with those of earlier travellers such as Sir Gardener Wilkinson. Her observations on architecture and scenery are amazingly incisive. Concerning the temple at Philae (since moved to accommodate Lake Nasser), she writes: "The temple is partly in good preservation, and one of the most imposing we have yet seen; it is dedicated to Osiris, who is said to have been buried there, for which reason this island was held particularly sacred. After wandering over it in every direction admiring its elegant columns and lofty propyla, richly sculptured and adorned, our repast was spread on a small gateway apart from the great building and overlooking the river and mountains in the most picturesque part, and we had an occasional glimpse of our boat winding slowly at a great distance amongst the rocks …" Fanny remains an intelligent, upbeat observer throughout, even when danger threatens (as when menaced by Albanian soldiers) or serious difficulties arise (as when negotiating the First Cataract). Very occasionally she lapses into a naïve assessment of Egyptian life, commenting, for instance, that "the Nubian slaves [in a Cairo market] are the happiest, best dressed and best treated people in the Pasha's dominions and in the market before they change owners, they seem well fed and very contented." Whereas some female Western travellers had visited these areas before - indeed Fanny finds the names of three ladies among those engraved on a rock at the southermost point of the journey - there can surely not have been any as young who left so thorough a written record. The vivid diary written by a precocious young woman is the more remarkable considering that what we know of travel in Egypt during the period is derived from scholarly and literary adventurers. Fanny Ward, born in Bombay in 1827, died in Frankfurt in 1861.

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